FirstMountains.co.uk

Kandersteg Climbing Conditions

John — Tue, 03 Jan 2012 16:45:23 +0000

We’ve just got back from a very warm and damp stay in Kandersteg. We had hoped to get some ice climbing done but The weather hasn’t been very favourable.The formation of Ice seems to be somewhat lacking compared to previous years with the autum being unseasonably dry and the local temperatures being mostly positive for the last few weeks. The route numbers are taken out of the new guide for the area “Hot Ice West” by Urs Odermatt and Mountain Consulting.

Route number 21.17 Rattenpissoir

We mostly explored the Oeschinenwald and Staubbach areas looking for climbing the photos give an idea of what was there.

an incomplete Stoferroute no.21.21

when we left we had just had two days of rain whilst this isn’t exactly what we were hoping for on our stay it might mean there are good conditions to come but with temperatures looking mostly positive for the rest of the week its not looking good for the weekends Ice Climbing Festival.

Somewhere in Sector 22

I will be writing another post on how we got out there and where we stayed etc in the near future.

Kendal Mountain Film Festival 2011

John — Wed, 30 Nov 2011 18:02:00 +0000

Early morning Kendal

It was another gloomy weekend in November and Most of the climbing community descended to the small town of Kendal for this years Annual Mountain Film Festival. Managing to escape just for two days we had a busy schedual to keep in order to catch all the must sees!

Ice Revolution

First thing saturday morning saw us taking in this amazing take on the world of ice climbing. A route which scews the perspective on modern day ice climbing. Featuring the very likable Tim Emmet and the hard serious Will Gadd!

We then headed for the warehouse cafe to sort breakfast and soak up some kendal atmosphere! Before checking out the planet Fear Marque! Possibly the shows single most exciting attraction as climbers really can’t pass up a bargin.

That afternoon we headed off to see Kenton Cool speak about skiing 8000m peaks. A totally engrossing talk which inparts reminded me lots of trekking this summer in the Himalayas (lots of rain, leaches and Games of Cricket). It was fascinating to see in to a world where not only climbing thr 8000m peak but to be comfortable enough to attempt to Ski down. Great realisations such as being along on the top of the mountain and the effect family can have on a climbers perspective.

Ski 8000

For our tea time showing we took in the Moonflower a film about 2 British Mountains Guides climbing a new line in Alaska. Amazing footage and really quite hard and cool climbing! All shot by them and then edited together stunningly in a way only Alistair Lee could! see the Trailer below, it is available to buy from posingproductions.com and might make a great present idea for xmas

That evening fairly exhausted from lots of film watching we dragged ourselves to see “Vertical Sailing – Greenland” and were not disappointed! A great laugh whilst climbing serious hard routes off the coast of greenland seemed to be the agenda. This certainly made me smile lots. The film also picked up the “Best Mountain Adventure Film” award

After getting a good nights sleep we were up a ready to see this years offering from Hot Aches Productions, The Long Hope. Totally captivated viewing, following Dave McCloud completing one of the longest and hardest faces in britain. No easy feet on its own but when combined with weather and fulmars it all seems a bit much! This film went on to receive the People Choice award.

That afternoon we were treated to a good chuckle by Andy Kirkpatrick, No matter how many times I see this man talk he still brings a smile and usually a tear of laughter! He talked briefly about his new book (Cold Wars) before entertaining us with his latest exploits, attempting to solo the troll wall in the deepest darkest Norway. Another look in to what its like to be a climber with other commitments whilst fighting an urge to try harder and harder challenges.

All in all a great weekend of socialising and being inspired! Already looking forward to next year!

The Original Mountain Marathon

John — Sat, 26 Nov 2011 15:40:29 +0000

So our summer season of courses have come to an end and what a great season its been! We are looking forward to a bit of a rest through the winter. But with a busy calendar of outdoor events were really still busy most weekends!

At the end of october me and Paul one of my best friends headed north of the boarder to Comrie a small village in Perthshire to take part in this years Original Mountain Marathon.

A very wet OMM start line

We had a few early problems mostly the forgetting of watches and spare batteries which left us begging around the Planet Fear stall for a new watch. One was nicely loaned to us by a member of staff! Kinda of an essential item for a timed race!

our second Checkpoint of the day

We boarded our bus at a leisurely pace and then strolled up the hill to the start. We had a strong first day finishing (well strong considering neither of us are particularly good runners!) with a score of 140. We endured lots of rain fairly low visibility and some particularly unpleasant hail. Whilst running up our last hill I managed to pull something at the top of my thigh, which slowed us down on our finish!

After a very uncomfortable nights sleep in our 1 and a bit man tent. We were woken in the morning by the sounds of bagpipes combined with the mist clearing of the loch made for an eery atmosphere. Struggling to walk from the day before it looked like it was going to be a get to the finish mission rather than a good scoring day!

Looking thrilled at the accommodation

I hobbled most of the way back not even making a run across the finish line! But at least we finished!

Sunshine across the overnight camp!

This was probably my favourite Original Mountain Marathon Yet!

Beginners Climbing

John — Mon, 17 Oct 2011 21:22:55 +0000

we’ve just had a weekend of amazing weather in the Peak District and we were out with Jon and Annabel on a beginners climbing course.

practicing our footwork

Saturday saw a fairly chilly start but developed to a lovely blue sky day. We headed up to Burbage North and worked our way down the crag away from the slowly building crowds.

Tying in and setting up the belay

We spent the morning working on footwork as netiher Jon or Annabel had climbed outside before. We also recapped over the basics of tying in and belaying.

Jon carefully picking his way up!

The start of sunday wasn’t quite so sunny and with a few aching limbs we headed up to the popular end of Stanage. We spent the morning climbing routes with different features and even got stuck in with some traditional gritstone jamming cracks.

We finished of the weekend with a trip to Lawerencefield for a bit of abseiling

Check out more photos of the course on Facebook here

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150351984379145.349544.345115724144&type=1&l=2d17a4517d

To book your own climbing course look at our course dates here

Getting a Taste!

John — Wed, 21 Sep 2011 17:31:51 +0000

Nate and Nicola joined up with the First Mountains Team on sunday to find get a feel for climbing on one of our climbing taster days!

Fortunately the weather was better than forecasted and we enjoyed lovely sunshine for most of the day! If anything the weather was a bit too calm which left us battling midges instead of the forecasted rain showers.

Nicola delicately placing her feet

We started the day by working on some basic skills. This focused on testing out their rock shoes to build up confidence in the sticky the rubber! With these skills mastered we started climbing several routes on Burbage North. We worked our way down the edge ticking a few trickly lines including “Over Hanging Buttress Direct”, Which Nath cruised looking super confident with his foot placements

Nate looking happy to be over the edge

We Breaked Briefly for a late lunch before shifting our attention to going down the rock face! Both Nate and Nicola made it over the edge and came back for seconds! Nate really took to the bouncing around on the Abeseil rope maybe he’s hoping to get noticed for a part in the next bond film!

All Smiles, Nicola breaths a sigh of relief!

Unfortunately our fine weather was dashed at the last moments when we got caught by a brief but heavy shower

See more photos from our day out on our facebook page

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150319402529145.342867.345115724144&l=d4e1461ca8

Want to experience climbing for yourself? Take a look at our Climbing Taster Day

A windy Improvers Climbing Course

John — Tue, 13 Sep 2011 19:29:30 +0000

This saturday we ran a slightly shortened Improvers climbing course. The forecast of bad weather meant we decided to run a one day course and focus entirely on rope work. This is one of the great things of always working with low ratios is that changes like this are easy to make!

We spent the morning being battered by the wind and a little rain, whilst we worked through the basics of belay construction and gear placement.

Placing climbing gear in a crack

needing a rest we headed down to Hathersage to escape the wind for lunch before heading up to Stanage to put all the skills from the morning in to practice! The wind was still and made working on top of the crag very difficult but we used more sheltered stances to practice equalising anchors to create safe bottom ropes.

a practice at equalising anchors

More photos from the day can be found here on our Facebook page

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150309228144145.340991.345115724144&l=a0f05649e0&type=1

Want to learn climbing skills like this? Have a look at our Improvers Climbing Weekend

Bronze Navigation Weekend

John — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 20:34:45 +0000

Taking a moment to look at the map

On monday and tuesday we ran a Navigation Weekend With Isabel. She was partnered up with one of our instructors and spend the first day mastering the basics of Navigation on Blacka moor. The looked closely at orientation of a map using a compass and linear features. They also spent time working on measuring distance both on the map and on the ground along with how to give an accurate grid reference.

All the skills from day one were then combined to plan a walk which was undertaken on day two of the course, this allowed for many of the skills to be covered again and put directly in to practice! Day 2 was spent Walking in the Burbage Valley.

If you think its time to work on your navigation check out our courses

Were also always publishing Hints and Tips articles read all about a compass here

August Beginners Climbing

John — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 18:40:18 +0000

Over the weekend we had Katherine, Kayleigh and Krysia Climbing with us in the Peak District. This course was run by Nick Mortley who stepped in on friday to cover me as I have hurt my back and shoulders in a car accident on Thursday. They had a great first day top roping climbs on Burbage North getting used to the gritstone style of climbing. The climbed Bilbery crack, Ash tree crack, Wall corner and Steptoe.

Ash Tree Crack

On Sunday they with their new skills they progressed to seconding Nick up some of the classics at Stanage popular end. Including Flying Buttress, Left Twin Chimney and Right Twin Chimney.

Left Twin Chimney

More photos can be found on our facebook page here

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150287337369145.335509.345115724144&l=3d24802019&type=1

Want to have ago yourself check out our range of climbing courses here

Petzl Myo Xp

John — Mon, 04 Jul 2011 14:35:44 +0000

Considered by many the only choice if you are ever going to be out in the dark doing something from an early start for the Welsh 3000′s to a late finish from climbing on “The Ben”. This headtorch has taken pride of place in the top of my rucksack now for over 2 years and it is still going strong!

A pre-dawn start on Toubkal

Size: it’s a fairly compact head torch, but by no means a Tikka, E-lite or Ion. However, it certainly packs more of a punch for it’s weight, and that tends to help when you need to see where your heading.

Batteries: it takes 3 AA batteries and it holds them at the back of the head to balance out the weight. For those working in particularly cold environments Petzl do the Myo Xp belt which gives you the option of using a longer cable to put the battery pack on to a belt.

Head strap: it only comes with a side head strap fitted and an over the head strap in the pack. I have never used it or felt the need to. The advantage of the side strap is it makes everything a little simpler, especially if your quickly adding it to a helmet. The bonus is that there is only one thing to adjust.

The light: this has a simple flick up and down diffuser. the on/off button and the boost button are a little fiddly. You get a focused beam which is good for picking out individual features, or a diffuse beam for general work and map reading etc. It has a boost button that gives you a short burst of extra power which is great for night nav as it allows you to see out things in the distance. There are three different power settings, easily cycled through with the power button and a flashing mode for when you want to attract lots of attention!

Petzl Myo XP Headtorch

The Myo Xp will give you 8hrs of battery life on maximum, although it’s worth looking at the drop off as the battery looses power on maximum. The light has a range of 72m (85 lumens) and this drops to 59m after 30min of use. A further 10 hours puts you at 39m. Still, with fresh batteries this does give a great amount of long distance light. Remember the boost function which takes you up to 97m (this is 150 lumens). All this makes the unit ideal if you get caught out in the dark for a few hours, or are working for long periods

Summary: it’s a very powerful unit for it’s weight (175g) even if it is a little fiddly.

This simple navigation tool ain’t so simple!

John — Wed, 22 Jun 2011 08:15:41 +0000

Compasses all shapes and sizes and to many people who have never owned one or used one it can all be a bit of a mystery. How ever to the avid navigator the difference between the right one and the wrong one is all in the detail. They tend to be an item that were are always told to have with us but with out the knowledge of how to use one they are next to useless.

A quick compass tour!

Click for bigger image

What makes the difference

The main way compasses differ is size, or to be precise the size of the base plate.

Small

Smaller baseplates are great for stashing away in to a bag and for the occasional user who will be mostly orientating the map and checking the general direction of travel

Big

Compasses with Larger baseplates are more accurate to for taking long bearings.
Larger base plates also tend to feature roamers which are used to measure distances on a map, a skill which is essential for accurate navigation.
They are also easier to hold with big gloves!
The often incorporate a magnifying glass which helps in picking out some of the smaller items on the map.
Tend to have glow in the dark panels which help with navigation.

We use the Silvia Ranger 3 on all our navigation courses as it has a larger baseplate making it more accurate and easier to use. We also recommend the the Suunto M3

Do your Hill Skills need some work?? check out our Bronze Navigation Courses!